At the heart of arab cities, you will normally find a tight labyrinth where traditions perpetuate. Not the case in Essaouira, where the medina of this city mixes muslim features with other european colonies, creating a distinct feel. It opens out to the sea, where the hanging bastions and walls that have protected this harbour city from pirate raids are found. We found Essaouira to be freindlier and more welcoming than Chaouen; an explosive mix of gentle, serene, entertaining and dynamic. Here we met Ali, a berber who works with his camel James on the beach, and Mii Mahdi, a young jockey who was racing his horse next to the sea.